Jul 23, 2006

Taoist Temple

The distinct architecture and striking colors of the Taoist temple provide welcome relief from the monotomy of stores and deteriorating buildings in downtown Feng Yuan.



A monk clad in traditional orange robes greets visitors to the temple with a tranquil smile, a donation bin in hand. The smile is returned graciously as I step past into the central shrine, hesitating a moment so my eyes can react to the dimmed interior. A shroud of incense, like fog, hangs almost palpable in the air. My gaze is immediately engaged by a large black cauldron, centrally positioned in a small inner courtyard. Two dragons cling to opposing sides of the cauldron, their mouths gaping menacingly in the rising smoke of freshly lit incense. A large pumpkin, symbolic of longevity and good health, sits directly in front on a low pedestal.


Directly behind the cauldron is the main shrine. Both the identity of the god and the significance of the religious ornaments surrounding it are equally lost upon me. No one around speaks English well enough to explain the scene. After a moment, I begin exploring further. The main shrine is encircled by several smaller shrines, each dedicated to a different god. Each is ornately adorned with countless idols and carvings.

After only a short visit, I nearly forget the bustling city practically smothering the temple outside. The afternoon sun is hot and brilliant, the fresh air revitalizing. The temple, on the south, is bordered by a congested intersection, and on the north by a narrow pedestrian street affectionately known as "stinky tofu alley." The name owes to tudofu, a particular type of tofu possessing one of the most pugnant and offensive odors imaginable, blitzing the nose and striking directly at the stomach. Pockets of the stench waft throughout the alley, eminating from the dozens of food vendors crammed along the street. An uninterrupted line of small shops and boutiques form second rank immediately behind the food stands. All remaining space in the alley is filled with people, playing human bumper cars. I didn't come to shop today, only absorb. Soon I am satisfied with the day's discoveries and begin working my way back home.

Jul 17, 2006

Taichung Jade Market

Taichung. Population 1,054,202. The city feels like Feng Yuan. Identical scents. Identical sounds. The city is ten times the size of Feng Yuan. Sprawling. Congested. Less innocent. Among the trove of its treasures - the Jade Market.



Jade - the Royal Gem. Rich in historical significance. Symbolic of energy, vivacity, and harmony. The cultural import of jade is evidenced by the swarming activity of the market. Occupying nearly an entire city block, the market comes to life every Friday through Sunday. Eager shoppers clot the aisles, flanked on both sides by artisans offering bracelets, rings, pendants, and carvings. Even the thriftiest of tourists can find a suitable souvenir.

Merchants offer much more than jade jewelry. Various kinds of wood, metals, stone, quartz, ivory, and earthwares abound. Beyond the statuary and carvings, vendors sell paintings, swords and daggers, chess sets, vases, and of course tea. Meandering along the rows, I often felt more a museum patron than a shopper. I did not buy. I only admired the beuatiful workmanship. Much of the merchandise is crafted by the various vendors themselves. One of the most striking displays - a set of masterfully crafted juniper bowls. Rich in reddish hue and powerfully aromatic, I paused and admired them for some time, nearly deciding on my first purchase.

Jul 12, 2006

Night Scenes

By 7:30, night blankets Feng Yuan. With the sun down, life in the city surges.



Scenes of a busy street Saturday night after watching Superman Returns. Each sense is engaged in the experience. Drink in the dazzling spectrum of lights in every direction. Taste the humidity hanging in the air, sweat beading on the brow. Hear the urban medley - scooter engines, indecipherable Chinese blaring from ad trucks, a dozen different radios. Inhale the wafting scents of foriegn foods, exhaust, and burning incense. Feel the pulse of the people. And feel overwhelmed.

Relief in a recognizable symbol. Three shiny stories of American majesty - resort for the homesick wanderer. Big Mac meals go for $109 NTD, or about $3 US. Not too bad for the frugal minded. I'm thinking McDonald's will certainly have its role. So far I've only been twice, and it was packed both times. A group of kids, busy about their hamburgers, began laughing at me when I sat down during my second visit. I'm not sure what for. English abilities were limited, but a deck cards belonging to one of them provided a simple solution. One little trick and we became fast friends. Card tricks transcend language barriers wonderfully.

Returning to the night. Only a few miles from the last scene and you discover the night market. Every Saturday night, an otherwise deserted parking lot transforms into a bustling hive - a hybrid flea market and small-town fair. Children empty parents' pockets for mini ferris wheel rides, ring toss games, and tempting bumper cars. Parents empty parents' pockets to satisfy appetites - fried squid, pie rolls, rice dishes, noodles, sushi, anything you could want (or not want depending on the reader). Merchant stalls offer clothes, books, toys, and all kinds of useless junk. Throngs of bodies press through the area like rush-hour traffic on the Beltway - only, minus rules to help govern the chaos.

To be continued...

Jul 4, 2006

The courts of Feng Yuan

Basketball courts. Naturally, one of my first orders of business was finding somewhere to play! Even before arriving in Taiwan, I was eager to begin looking. It was one of the first questions I asked during our city bicycle tour our first day here. And here they are!



In a park, not more than 10 minutes from the school by bicycle, two full-length outdoor courts sit adjacent to each other. It's summer, and even on a Monday night, easily more than 50 people hang around, all anxious to play. Games are half court, three-on-three, first-team-to-six-points-by-ones, winner's ball. Games are also lightning fast, highly competitive, and yet ultimately friendly. Players call their own fouls and are quick to say sorry.


Both morning and night, and especially on weekends, the courts swell with activity. Not all of it is basketball. Last night, a Tai Chi class occupied one of the half courts for about an hour after we arrived. Tai Chi is a meditative exercise derived anciently from martial arts - a sort of breed of yoga and meditation. In between games, I sat quietly and observed the group, hopefully not disturbing them with several blinding flashes from my camera!

The basketball courts are only one of the park's many treasures. Landscaped gardens, shaded footpaths, pavilions, children's playgrounds - all come together to create a welcome oasis nestled inconspicuously in a cramped and congested city. In the heart of the park stands a towering monument, it's meaning and significance as obscure to me as the Chinese characters that adorn it. Four prominent characters appear on the front of the monument, which supposedly read Heaven, Above, (unknown), and Mother. The stone carvings around the base of the statue are beautifully crafted - the dragons in particular are my favorite.

The courts. I think I will be visiting the park often.