Jul 23, 2006

Taoist Temple

The distinct architecture and striking colors of the Taoist temple provide welcome relief from the monotomy of stores and deteriorating buildings in downtown Feng Yuan.



A monk clad in traditional orange robes greets visitors to the temple with a tranquil smile, a donation bin in hand. The smile is returned graciously as I step past into the central shrine, hesitating a moment so my eyes can react to the dimmed interior. A shroud of incense, like fog, hangs almost palpable in the air. My gaze is immediately engaged by a large black cauldron, centrally positioned in a small inner courtyard. Two dragons cling to opposing sides of the cauldron, their mouths gaping menacingly in the rising smoke of freshly lit incense. A large pumpkin, symbolic of longevity and good health, sits directly in front on a low pedestal.


Directly behind the cauldron is the main shrine. Both the identity of the god and the significance of the religious ornaments surrounding it are equally lost upon me. No one around speaks English well enough to explain the scene. After a moment, I begin exploring further. The main shrine is encircled by several smaller shrines, each dedicated to a different god. Each is ornately adorned with countless idols and carvings.

After only a short visit, I nearly forget the bustling city practically smothering the temple outside. The afternoon sun is hot and brilliant, the fresh air revitalizing. The temple, on the south, is bordered by a congested intersection, and on the north by a narrow pedestrian street affectionately known as "stinky tofu alley." The name owes to tudofu, a particular type of tofu possessing one of the most pugnant and offensive odors imaginable, blitzing the nose and striking directly at the stomach. Pockets of the stench waft throughout the alley, eminating from the dozens of food vendors crammed along the street. An uninterrupted line of small shops and boutiques form second rank immediately behind the food stands. All remaining space in the alley is filled with people, playing human bumper cars. I didn't come to shop today, only absorb. Soon I am satisfied with the day's discoveries and begin working my way back home.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Nice site. You write so delicately :) Glad things are going so well. Take care of yourself!!