A Weekend in Kenting

A five-plus-hour car ride. With four native speakers, it was a great opportunity to improve my language ability. Fortunately, my friends speak much better English than I do Chinese! And despite the long drive, I was eager for the chance to visit Kenting, a renowned beach resort at the southern-most tip of Taiwan.

After a late morning departure, we reached Kenting a few hours before sunset. With little idea of our actaul agenda, I was immediately awed at our first stop - the Kenting National Forest. After a brief hike, we climbed to an observation platform to take in the view. The vista was arresting. Verdant, rolling foothills strecth inland as far as the eye can see, eventually escalating into majestic mountains. Opposite, the forest tapers off into the vast blue Pacific. Coral rock and wind-shaped trees, two of the singular features of the forest, are complimented by a variety of flora and fauna that make the forest simply stunning.

Our next stop - South Bay beach. The sun sank quickly as we searched for a spot along main street. We reached the beach with perfect timing to admire the sunset. A few rolling clouds obstructed the view, yet the sky was still painted with soft patches of violet and pink. Even with daylight fading, the beach was thronged with people. We spent a little time in the water, a little time playing, but evening quickly settled. We soon left to prepare our accommodations for the night - two tents at a cozy little site not 15 minutes walk from downtown! Another brief stop, just long enough to set up camp and shower before heading back into town. The Kenting night market awaited.

A brief word on night markets. Virtually every major city or town boasts a night market, many places more than one. No matter where you are, night markets swarm with crowds of people pressing through narrow aisles or along cramped streets lined with shops and vendors, food stands and carnival games. The night market in Kenting was unlike any other I've experienced. The atmosphere was charged, the mass of humanity almost crushing! Enjoy a glimpse for yourself.

Our night was not yet complete. From the night market, we traveled a short distance to visit the chu huo, a site renowned for its small fires that burn perpetually off natural gases seeping up from the earth. Groups of visitors lit fireworks, some popped kettle corn over the flames. Relaxed and at leisure, the mood of the people was contagious. It was simply fun being among them!

Our day eventually came to an end, but not before several rounds of card games back at the campsite. The next morning came too quickly! By midday, we were to be back on the road returning to Fengyuan. We used the morning to visit one last site, the Fuangong temple. Apparently the largest temple of its class in Taiwan, hundreds of visitors filtered through offering prayers and burning incense.

A five-plus-hour return ride. Thoroughly exhausted, I think we were all eager now to get home!

Scooters

I remember first arriving and experiencing the streets of Fengyuan. I couldn't get enough of zipping around on my brand new bike, weaving through the chaos of cars, buses, scooters, pedestrians, and the occasional dog. At least for the first few weeks. Work soon picked up and the days got longer. The luster of bike rides quickly faded beneath the scorching sun. Besides, a bike didn't really allow me to venture anywhere beyond my immediate surroundings. I began to feel trapped...

About $230 proved my liberation. I bought a scooter - 125cc engine, paint peeling, definitely used. Having a scooter revitalized me! Midnight runs to 711, a hop over to the basketball courts, visits to friends, a refreshing drive into the mountains, convenience getting to church. It hasn't taken long to become an integral part of my daily life. Add to that the sheer rush of navigating traffic - probably best just to flow with it and keep your helmet fastened! Oh, and make sure to check out other people's helmets while you're at it.

Scooters are everywhere. Affordable, maintainable, and practical. It's not uncommon to see a family of three or even four cruising around on a single scooter. Small children either sit behind with arms clutched tightly around the parent, or stand between the driver and the handlebars. Scooters are incredibly convenient for squeezing through traffic. At red lights, as the line of cars quickly extends backwards, scooters sift through the cracks and seams and pool at the front of the intersection. Usually, before the light changes they take off.

A tunnel, inconspicuously burrowed beneath the railroad, connects two obscure side streets. Barely wide enough to admit two scooters, blink and you'll practically miss it. It's one of my favorite routes downtown! Stores of similar experiences await discovery in secreted nooks and alleys all over Fengyuan. Scooters render it all accessible. After spending a whole day confined to the school, I unwind by exploring. Getting lost has never been more therapeutic.

You have to live the experience to understand it. Video might be the next best thing! As a disclaimer, videoblogging is new to me. I apologize of any technical difficulties if you cannot view them.

Guguan Hot Springs

We heard tell of hot springs. Guguan, a small town nestled in the mountains east of Fengyuan, is locally renowned for its springs and a popular resort destination for the Taiwanese. The allure was certainly enough to merit a day trip.

Guguan is situated along a river that snakes through the canyon, sheltered on both sides by mountains veiled in green. A beautiful contrast to the now familiar sites of Fengyuan. We set off immediately to learn more about the hot springs. Following a trail outside the Guguan visitor's center, we wound our way down to the river and discovered a large foot bridge extending to the far side. The sign, roughly translated into English, is classic Taiwan! This country is littered with awesome translations on signs, menus, everything, all catered to the anglophone visitor. Something you need to be here to fully appreciate I think.

On the opposite side of the river, we had no luck locating the hot springs we sought. In the interest of time, we returned to get more information, also affording us an opportunity to tour the town. It is quaint, for Taiwan. A small number of shops lined the main street, a few with large fish tanks on display that immediately caught my eye. Like the pretty fish? Step right behind into the restaurant and you can have your pick of the bunch!

The more people we conversed with in town, the more we began to understand. Our idea of hot springs did not exactly equate with the Taiwanese idea. Where we envisioned natural pools, slippery rocks, and sulfur, the locals know only spas - perhaps heated by thermal springs if you're lucky, but what does that matter really? No wonder everyone we asked kept directing us to the hotels. In vain we tried to indicate that we thought we should be heading deeper into the mountains.

Not that the idea of a spa was entirely unappealing. In fact, we soon embraced the alternative and began searching for a reasonably priced place. Spas abound in Guguan, almost to rival restaurants. In the end, we were more than happy to pay a relative pittance for admission to a decent spa with a spectacular view. Five pools of varying temperature. Jets, high-pressure showers, and sauna. Two hours of perfect relaxation. I slept like a baby on the bus ride back home.

A Tribute

On their birthday, I pay special tribute to my beloved parents whose guidance and affection have led me to where I am. I do not attempt to relate the storied history of events and seeming coincidences that eventually crossed such disparate paths as theirs. Suffice it to say, they came from different worlds. On December 30, 1969 those worlds converged in an celestial union, marking the birth of a new family.

To my parents I owe everything. Their nuturing and affection have defined, and redefined my character with unerring constancy.

My father has been, and remains to this day the consummate example in my life. Indefatigably cheerful and selfless, genuinely humble and sincere, he is distinguished by both personal conviction and unwavering faith. The quality of his character is readily attested by any in his acquaintence. I remember him teaching me to pray as a young boy. Kneeling together at my bedside, my prayers were always followed with his amens, approvingly and authoritatively voiced in such a manner that I was certain my petitions were heard in the heavens. To this day, I can distinctly recall those amens - often still I echo them silently in conclusion to my most sincere supplications. My father also taught me the value of service, that it's rewards are manifestly multiplied when performed gladly and motivated by love. Opportunities to reach out were never ignored.

What can be written to justly honor my mother? How can I describe the absolute courage and devotion of a woman willing to separate herself from family and country in pursuit of a new found faith? Of much of her life prior to marriage, I am shamefully ignorant. My memories and impressions of her as a mother, however, are vast and replete with love, respect, and admiration. As a young woman she was beautiful indeed. Years of virtuous living and unvarying devotion have only rendered her more so. Amiable and affectionate by nature, she taught me to cherish and serve others. She encourgaed me to work hard, consistently supporting me in my duties and responsibilities. Most of all, however, I am grateful for her resolute testimony of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. Her faith is vibrant, and it is a source of constant strength to me, even removed as I am to the far side of the globe.

To my parents - it is now consecutive years that I have been abroad on this occasion. Know that my thoughts and prayers are with you. Thank you for who you are, for what you've taught me, and for how you continue to support me in all of my endeavors. I love you.

Affectionately, Your Son

Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial

Last weekend afforded an opportunity for a short visit to Taipei. With absolutely no prior experience in Taiwan's capitol, my roommate and I decided to explore the nearby Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall during our few free afternoon hours. We eagerly set out on foot, trusting to recognize the reknowned site neither before beheld by either.

Recognize it we did. Standing on the corner of a large intersection, debating the possibility of having received poor directions, we lifted our eyes and observed a scene both had managed to overlook only 30 seconds previous. Directly opposite us stretched an elaborate white and blue-trimmed wall encompassing a beautiful city park, easily imagined to canvas the entire city block. Rising distantly above the treeline, an ornate roof bespoke the presence of a magnificent structure situated deeper within the walled grounds. Our steps were immediately bent toward it.



We meandered forward, admiring the extensive variety of shrubbery and appreciating the relief of shade. The enormous building loomed before us on the far side of the garden. We approached from the rear of the memorial, unexposed to the full grandeur of the scene about to be discovered. The hall is impressive indeed - a fortress of immaculate white stone standing atop an elevated base, itself at least two stories high. The majestic pagoda roof, upon close inspection, is of the most intricate design, and looks almost as if built entirely of, well, legos. Inside the hall sits a daunting statue of the late President. The woodwork decorating the ceiling above is simply awesome.

Continuing to the front of the hall, the full scale of the C.K.S. Memorial Park was soon revealed in a breathtaking panorama. The park occupies several city blocks, by conservative estimate, in both breadth and width. From the base of the memorial hall extends the Boulevard of Homage, a broad stone thoroughfare flanked by symmetrically manicured gardens. The far end of the Boulevard joins to the east side of the expansive C.K.S. Square. Exactly opposite on the west end stands the park's main gate, the striking 30-meter high Gate of "Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness." On the north and south sides are located the National Concert Hall and the National Theater respectively. Awed and in no hurry to move on, we readily passed an hour, and more, surveying the many remarkable sites.

Our brief tour of the capitol also allowed a visit to the Taipei Taiwan Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Nestled quietly in the midst of another otherwise frenzied neighborhood, the Temple contrasts sharply against the surrounding city blocks. The grounds, though restricted in size, possess the signature elegance common to all temples scattered throughout the many corners of the globe. A special spirit shrouds this beautiful edifice.

Taoist Temple

The distinct architecture and striking colors of the Taoist temple provide welcome relief from the monotomy of stores and deteriorating buildings in downtown Feng Yuan.

A monk clad in traditional orange robes greets visitors to the temple with a tranquil smile, a donation bin in hand. The smile is returned graciously as I step past into the central shrine, hesitating a moment so my eyes can react to the dimmed interior. A shroud of incense, like fog, hangs almost palpable in the air. My gaze is immediately engaged by a large black cauldron, centrally positioned in a small inner courtyard. Two dragons cling to opposing sides of the cauldron, their mouths gaping menacingly in the rising smoke of freshly lit incense. A large pumpkin, symbolic of longevity and good health, sits directly in front on a low pedestal.

Directly behind the cauldron is the main shrine. Both the identity of the god and the significance of the religious ornaments surrounding it are equally lost upon me. No one around speaks English well enough to explain the scene. After a moment, I begin exploring further. The main shrine is encircled by several smaller shrines, each dedicated to a different god. Each is ornately adorned with countless idols and carvings.

After only a short visit, I nearly forget the bustling city practically smothering the temple outside. The afternoon sun is hot and brilliant, the fresh air revitalizing. The temple, on the south, is bordered by a congested intersection, and on the north by a narrow pedestrian street affectionately known as "stinky tofu alley." The name owes to tudofu, a particular type of tofu possessing one of the most pugnant and offensive odors imaginable, blitzing the nose and striking directly at the stomach. Pockets of the stench waft throughout the alley, eminating from the dozens of food vendors crammed along the street. An uninterrupted line of small shops and boutiques form second rank immediately behind the food stands. All remaining space in the alley is filled with people, playing human bumper cars. I didn't come to shop today, only absorb. Soon I am satisfied with the day's discoveries and begin working my way back home.

Taichung Jade Market

Taichung. Population 1,054,202. The city feels like Feng Yuan. Identical scents. Identical sounds. The city is ten times the size of Feng Yuan. Sprawling. Congested. Less innocent. Among the trove of its treasures - the Jade Market.



Jade - the Royal Gem. Rich in historical significance. Symbolic of energy, vivacity, and harmony. The cultural import of jade is evidenced by the swarming activity of the market. Occupying nearly an entire city block, the market comes to life every Friday through Sunday. Eager shoppers clot the aisles, flanked on both sides by artisans offering bracelets, rings, pendants, and carvings. Even the thriftiest of tourists can find a suitable souvenir.

Merchants offer much more than jade jewelry. Various kinds of wood, metals, stone, quartz, ivory, and earthwares abound. Beyond the statuary and carvings, vendors sell paintings, swords and daggers, chess sets, vases, and of course tea. Meandering along the rows, I often felt more a museum patron than a shopper. I did not buy. I only admired the beuatiful workmanship. Much of the merchandise is crafted by the various vendors themselves. One of the most striking displays - a set of masterfully crafted juniper bowls. Rich in reddish hue and powerfully aromatic, I paused and admired them for some time, nearly deciding on my first purchase.

Night Scenes

By 7:30, night blankets Feng Yuan. With the sun down, life in the city surges.



Scenes of a busy street Saturday night after watching Superman Returns. Each sense is engaged in the experience. Drink in the dazzling spectrum of lights in every direction. Taste the humidity hanging in the air, sweat beading on the brow. Hear the urban medley - scooter engines, indecipherable Chinese blaring from ad trucks, a dozen different radios. Inhale the wafting scents of foriegn foods, exhaust, and burning incense. Feel the pulse of the people. And feel overwhelmed.

Relief in a recognizable symbol. Three shiny stories of American majesty - resort for the homesick wanderer. Big Mac meals go for $109 NTD, or about $3 US. Not too bad for the frugal minded. I'm thinking McDonald's will certainly have its role. So far I've only been twice, and it was packed both times. A group of kids, busy about their hamburgers, began laughing at me when I sat down during my second visit. I'm not sure what for. English abilities were limited, but a deck cards belonging to one of them provided a simple solution. One little trick and we became fast friends. Card tricks transcend language barriers wonderfully.

Returning to the night. Only a few miles from the last scene and you discover the night market. Every Saturday night, an otherwise deserted parking lot transforms into a bustling hive - a hybrid flea market and small-town fair. Children empty parents' pockets for mini ferris wheel rides, ring toss games, and tempting bumper cars. Parents empty parents' pockets to satisfy appetites - fried squid, pie rolls, rice dishes, noodles, sushi, anything you could want (or not want depending on the reader). Merchant stalls offer clothes, books, toys, and all kinds of useless junk. Throngs of bodies press through the area like rush-hour traffic on the Beltway - only, minus rules to help govern the chaos.

To be continued...

The courts of Feng Yuan

Basketball courts. Naturally, one of my first orders of business was finding somewhere to play! Even before arriving in Taiwan, I was eager to begin looking. It was one of the first questions I asked during our city bicycle tour our first day here. And here they are!



In a park, not more than 10 minutes from the school by bicycle, two full-length outdoor courts sit adjacent to each other. It's summer, and even on a Monday night, easily more than 50 people hang around, all anxious to play. Games are half court, three-on-three, first-team-to-six-points-by-ones, winner's ball. Games are also lightning fast, highly competitive, and yet ultimately friendly. Players call their own fouls and are quick to say sorry.


Both morning and night, and especially on weekends, the courts swell with activity. Not all of it is basketball. Last night, a Tai Chi class occupied one of the half courts for about an hour after we arrived. Tai Chi is a meditative exercise derived anciently from martial arts - a sort of breed of yoga and meditation. In between games, I sat quietly and observed the group, hopefully not disturbing them with several blinding flashes from my camera!

The basketball courts are only one of the park's many treasures. Landscaped gardens, shaded footpaths, pavilions, children's playgrounds - all come together to create a welcome oasis nestled inconspicuously in a cramped and congested city. In the heart of the park stands a towering monument, it's meaning and significance as obscure to me as the Chinese characters that adorn it. Four prominent characters appear on the front of the monument, which supposedly read Heaven, Above, (unknown), and Mother. The stone carvings around the base of the statue are beautifully crafted - the dragons in particular are my favorite.

The courts. I think I will be visiting the park often.