Travel Log

A Wild Ride in India, Plus Pics

2009-01-28T10:59:00.015+08:00

Can I just say how amused I was that someone decided to exact revenge on Bernie Madoff by, get this, teepee-ing his house! As if the act alone wasn't enough, the Fox news headline read "Breaking news: Madoff house attacked with toilet paper." Be careful in the bathroom.

Winding back the clock. Two months ago, I really didn't have a clue when I landed in Mumbai. I had my backpack, an address scribbled on a scrap of paper, a phone number I didn't know how to call, and $11 cash. It was 4:30 in the morning.

Outside you would have thought it was noon at Disneyworld. Throngs crowded outside the exit, no doubt awaiting friends and family. No one was there for me though. I still needed to travel 4 hours east from Mumbai to Pune, my final destination.

So I hired a cab, no matter I didn't have any cash, and just hoped my little address was sufficient. I'm writing this, so obviously it was. But not without a little adventure.

My driver's name was Raju. That's about all I learned from him in about 4 and a half hours, since he hardly spoke English. But Raju's driving skills more than made up for the lack of stimulating conversation. Drifting between lanes, or taking two at a time, accelerating, decelerating. It was quite the thrill ride.

Especially about two hours in. It was getting lighter, and I was watching the countryside. Then we started drifting and slowing down again, but this time more than usual. A glance forward showed we were heading for a concrete divider. A further glance to my right showed Raju, head back in full tilt, eyes glossed. The guy was out! So I did what had to be done. Punched him in the shoulder. Hard. Raju snapped alert, a great guilty smile on his face. A minute later he pulled over to stretch and revive himself a bit, and I made him do jumping jacks for good measure.

To make a long story short, we made it through the rest of the drive. I think I reached Pune around 9:30, somewhat relieved.

Images can highlight the next 11 days. In no particular order...

Morning at the Taj Mahal, in Agra. The fog/smog didn't lift all morning, making the view feel incredibly surreal, even in person. I've included a few more Taj pics at the bottom.

Street scene in Agra, blocks away from the Taj Mahal. You can see at least two generations of rickshaws, older bicycle rickshaws (left) and motor rickshaws (right). The latter are everywhere in India.

India Gate, famous monument in Delhi.

Women escorting their children at Qutub Minar, another sightseeing hot spot, in Delhi. I was trying to capture some of the brilliant colors of India, reflected in their dress.

Fellow travelers I met in Agra. Represented at the table are South Africa, Scotland, Spain, Ireland, and one bearded American.

Another shot from Priti's wedding, this time with the ceremony in action.

A pandit at Priti's wedding, preparing for another part of the ritual. The seven rice piles are decorated and represent seven promises the bride and groom will make. Each pile is ceremoniously stepped on by the bride.

My friends and fellow employees at Xento. Left to right, Rahul Nagpure, Dhananjay Kale, and Praveen Shetty, after dinner my last night in Pune.

Another sunrise in Pune.

Qutub Minar tower in Delhi.

At Yusuf Poonawala's wedding reception, along with his bride Sakina. Yusuf's wedding was my reason/excuse for going to India in the first place. This was the day I arrived.

Back to the Taj Mahal. It might look like it, but I did not photoshop myself in. Would have been a lot cheaper though.

Like I said, the haze stayed, but we did get some beautiful morning hues reflected off the white marble. Completed in 1653, the Taj Mahal took 21 years to build, with thousands of laborers and over 1000 elephants used to haul in materials. Locals told us that Emperor Shah Jahan, who had the monument constructed as a mausoleum for his wife, ordered that all the artisans and craftsmen have their hands chopped off so they could never reproduce their labors. Wikipedia says there is no evidence to support such myths. Who to trust?

One of my favorite images. Good thing I snapped this before the fountains turned on and spoiled the reflection.

A final look, but actually one of the first pics I took at the Taj Mahal. Dylan, one of the friends I met, is silhouetted in the forefront as we entered the front gate from the outer courtyards.

Pune Daily

2008-11-25T17:45:00.007+08:00

I've spent 5 days in Pune, home to Xento Systems, the development arm of my company Property Solutions. My job wouldn't be successful without the outstanding work of our team here.

Pune itself is mostly unremarkable as a tourist destination. However, it is a paragon of modern India, a sprawling city of 4 million plus, and a rising technology hub that's lured companies like IBM and Cisco.

Being with my colleagues here has allowed me to experience a truer sense of daily life, and it's been wonderful. Here are a few more snapshots.

Manikchand Malabaar, apartments directly across the street from the Xento office. Property Solutions lets a 7th floor flat here, which is where I've been staying.

Xento team lunch, Nov 25. Everyday at 1pm the office orders out and eats together on the top floor of the building. Same restaurant each time, but different menu.

Some of the Xento team on a walk after lunch. Left to right: Gurunath Auti, Netaji Wakde, Shahjad Ali, Aniruddha Malvi.

A typical street view is littered with debris and trash. Anyone interested in a checkup?

View from the Property Solutions flat. Pune is larger than expected. Already on the southern outskirts, this view looks further south east and away from downtown, yet there continues to be development as far as you can see.

Sunrise view from the flat.

First Glimpses of Pune

2008-11-23T17:26:00.008+08:00

Pune, Maharashtra, India.

This morning crossing the street, there were two cows wondering unattended down the road, as the cars and motorcycles just zipped around them. I'll try to have my camera ready next time.

Traffic is easily the first area of culture shock; the best word to describe it is madness. Seeing the cows was just the cherry on top. Base ingredients include motorcycles, scooters, bicycles, cars, buses, trucks, rickshaws ("autos"), carts, dogs and pedestrians. Add a healthy dose of honking, sprinkle with dust, and make sure to omit order. Then bake at 90 degrees F, 24x7.

Yesterday I watched a guy's hat come flying off as he sped through traffic. He came back against the grain, and stopped in the middle of the road to pick it up, while everyone else just dodged him. Love it!

Anyway, with that build up I'm sorry, but I'm not posting any videos quite yet (the only thing that would do the traffic justice). Wanna take a nap. But here are a few random photos from my experience thus far.

Paper masala dosa for breakfast. The dosa is the large cone-shaped part (like a brittle crepe made from rice), and the masala is in the bowl inside. Accompanied with chutney and other stuff, can't keep all the food names straight.

Pushp har for sale on the street. Flower necklace worn at weddings and other such ceremonies.

Haaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy!

Wedding of Priti Chaudhari, flanked by some of our developers. She's one of many of a fantastic team.

Mehandi, or heena, on Priti's hands. She said it took about 4-5 hours to do.

Shaniwar Wada, ancient palace, downtown Pune. Mostly in ruin now, aside from the exterior walls. Now the interior is a nicely landscaped courtyard, frequented by school kids and sweethearts.

Front gate to Shaniwar Wada. The spikes start at about 7 feet up because they were used to deter elephants from ramming through. At least that's what I heard.

Designing for Dinner

2007-04-21T05:31:00.000+08:00

It's amazing how unemployment will drive you out of your mind.

As I continue to job search though, I try to keep myself busy enough to avoid completely losing it. So I'm designing. It's great to be able to get back into a hobby I was forced to put away on a high dusty shelf the last 10 months.

My recent designs include the entire DVD menu and DVD labels for Token Chinglish, the amateur documentary we pieced together last month. Here's a screenshot of the main menu.

I helped tailor a design for a CD my friend recently recorded and released. She has some great songs on the album, my favorite being a little tribute titled "Ray of Sunshine". I also recently completed graduation announcements for two other friends, both of whom were interested in having less-to-non-traditional designs (and are looking to rake in a little money). Here's what I came up with.

All of this work has been for free of course (these are my friends), so I'm still seeking an actual source of income. But I haven't come away from all this work completely empty handed. I'm trading my services for dinner, so I guess I should say empty stomached.

Update

2007-04-07T05:01:00.000+08:00

Let's get caught up, shall we?

Rewind to December. Just a few days shy of Christmas, and my time teaching at Berhan has come to an end. Farewells are never easy. I have absolutely loved my experience here, with the people I've met, and especially with my crazy, endearing students. But it's time to get away from these monkeys!

My plans, however, do not take me straight home. New Year's Eve finds me on a calm, warm night, relaxed on a floating dock, perched on water's edge... on the Kwai River in Kanchanaburi, Thailand. We're exhausted and tempted to get to bed early. But how often are you in Thailand, and so we have the first resolution of the new year -- just make it to midnight. We do, and good thing too. We get an impressive fireworks display, not more than a kilometer away, illuminating the sky above the Kwai River.

From Thailand, it's back to Taiwan, but only for a few days. Time for final goodbyes to friends, brief visits with my students, shopping, and preparations for the next stop - Fiji!

Everytime I visit the islands, I leave determined that this trip will not be my last... but never knowing when the next will come. So I take a full month... storing up the land, the people, carefully preserving my memories... and well, just being plain lazy!

Following a month in Fiji, and now nearly 8 months overall abroad, I'm eager to return home. I'm ready to take on the next stage, whatever it may bring.

Fast forward to mid February. I arrive in Los Angeles, pick up a rental, and drive two hours south. The next two days are spent in Bonita, California, visiting my aunt Celia. She has a beautiful home, and she's a fantastic host. We get this great idea to spend an afternoon south of the border in Tijuana, Mexico. Our main objective -- find the donkeys that are painted like zebras she tells me they have in Tijuana (zebrurros as I call them). How can you pass that up? Well, as you can tell, mission accomplished.

The next little bit is sort of a whirlwind. After California, I find myself back in Utah. Within a week, however, I'm on the road, driving south to Thatcher, Arizona. I know, it's like... "Where?" Or maybe you're thinking... "Um... why?" Well Thatcher is where my friend Stori lives. She and I are collaborating on an amateur documentary about our experience in Taiwan (where we worked together). In a week and a half we throw together a rough cut of the film. Then, we break and I return to Utah for about a week, following which I return to Thatcher, and another week and a half later, we have a finished film. Now one more drive back up to Utah. Each leg of the drive covers about 750 miles and gobbles up about 12 hours. Times four and that's a lot of one-on-none time! Fortunately, each time I drive through the amazing Salt River Canyon.

The documentary is done, finally. I almost missed all of March Madness. I get back to Utah three days before I turn around and fly up to Portland, Oregon. A vacation from vacationing sort of. My sister Melanie and her family live in Tualatin, a Portland suburb, and I haven't seen them in over two years. But it's not only a reunion with them. My sister Nadine and my brothers Jeremy, Matt, and Andrew all come out as well. We spend five great days together, and we do some wicked double-dutch.

Ok, I'm back in Utah. I moved into the White House, well a white house, and I've emptied the bags that played dressers the last four months. Time to return to some degree of normalcy. I'm staying put now... at least until the end of April!

This post is far too long!!

New Year, New Chapter

2007-01-13T07:28:00.000+08:00

Remember Groundhog Day? Ever wonder what that would be like... to revisit time already lived? Fly back and forth across the Pacific and you can. I got 5 hours back, and let me tell you, I can think of a hundred better ways to spend it than sitting around a crowded airport.

But such was my lot. January 8th I left Taiwan, and after a rather long flight, found myself back on US soil five hours earlier than I left, the same day. I didn't stay in Los Angeles for long - 11 hours later and I was onboard another 747 pointed right back across the world's largest ocean. Destination - Fiji. Translation - another rather long flight.

Crossing the international date line once is a kick in and of itself. Do it twice in the span of 24 hours, and well, I'm not sure what it does to a person. But somewhere over the vast deep, an entire day disappeared from my calendar. Kind of fun to ask... what were you doing on January 9th? Not me, mine didn't exist. The date line exacted it as a fee for crossing. And our hypothesis didn't hold up - you can't erase jetlag by flying one way and then immediately backtracking a nearly equal distance. I arrived safely, and completely out of wits.

A new chapter for a new year. My time in Taiwan has come to a close, quicker than I could possibly have imagined it seems. I leave behind many friends and wonderful experiences. However, I plan to continue this travel log, for I still have many stories and many images worth sharing. Only bear with me. I will not likely write again until after I return from Fiji, in about one month's time. So if you are interested and remember, please come back and check again in the near future. God bless.

Yuanzuei Mountain

2006-11-18T14:03:00.000+08:00

Shrouded in a sea of gray. At over 2000 meters, the summit of the mountain thrusts obstinately into the low-lying clouds. But, the obscured view is hardly a concern right now. My attention is wholly diverted to the sheer rock face I am desperately clinging to... fingers shaking... feet slipping... cue the Mission Impossible music...

The day began on a much milder note. After wrapping up Saturday morning classes, Trevor, Kathryn and I strapped on the gear and mounted up. Nothing better than a refreshing scooter cruise and a quick weekend overnighter. It took us a blissful hour and a half to reach the base of Yuanzuei mountain, northeast of Dongshih. First item of business, get away from the crowds and set up camp. Check. Next on the list, the object of our excursion - a leisurely afternoon hike to the mountain summit.

Stage one of the trek held little drama. A direct ascent, not more than a kilometer long, up the wooded mountainside along a well-groomed trail. The tranquility of the forest was breathtaking. Or maybe that was the merciless stretch of uninterrupted stairs. Either way, the first half of the hike proved a pleasant experience, despite a little bit of burn in our legs. Before long, we reached the top of a low ridge, still canopied by the surrounding wood, where we were greeted by a fork in the road. Right. Another 1.5 km to our destination.

Stage two is marked by a perceptible change in the landscape. The mature giants of the forest disappear. The mountain granite protrudes more prevalently through the soft soil. And the ascent steepens. Ropes appear on the trail to help the novice hiker, and soon ladders. We are no longer hiking, just climbing. Our seasoned party, of course, unanimously agrees - hands off the ropes! Let the real adventure begin. As we press on, the trail steadily grows rockier.

And then, a short distance ahead, it suddenly appears. The barren summit of Yuanzuei, a wedge of solid granite cutting into the sky like a giant stone knife. On one side, it's bordered by a sheer precipice, completely unapproachable. The other side is formidable as well, but offers just enough of an incline to not fully dissuade one from attempting to scale it. Like a siren she calls to me...

...My grip is weakening now. I'm stuck. I won't last much longer, not without a better foothold. But there aren't any. The tread on my shoes is practically worn off. Time to make a move. Brazenly push up, hoping to land an invisible handhold just out of reach, or go down, don't know exactly how from my current position... where's that theme music already?

Adrenaline flowing, I make my decision. Carefully, I flatten myself against the rock. Then I spread eagle and begin inching my way down, sliding against the sandpaper surface of the stone to help control my speed. OK, so it's not Hollywood, not today. Trevor kindly comes over to brace me from the bottom of the face. In a moment I'm down, no harm done. With that adventure behind us, what do we do next? Why move further up the face of the summit and begin climbing again of course! Only this time, footholds are plentiful.

Alarm Parade

2006-11-15T20:37:00.000+08:00

It was a late night. No alarm clock. I'm just gonna wake up when I wake up...

The rude awakening came at about 9 AM. (That is not sleeping in, ok? That's much much earlier than I had intended to get up!) Forget the usual suspects. The wretched blare of my alarm clock had been silenced, intentionally, the night before. It wasn't the mosquitoes patiently draining the life out of my feet. And no, it wasn't the routine wave of screaming Chinese pages coming over the school intercom system. Couldn't be, Trevor and I unplugged our room phone months ago. Today's culprit was fresh and completely unforeseen - a random Taiwanese parade! The discordant blend of live percussion, ear-splitting fireworks, and karaoke-style techno would have been enough probably to rouse us all the way from downtown. Fortunately for us, this parade moseyed right down our street.

Actually, I jumped at this most convenient photo op. Since I don't really understand anything about the parade (occasion, symbolism, purpose, etc), I'll let the images do most of the talking.

The paraders taking a short break during their rain-soaked march. That's Trevor cruising down the middle of the street, getting the up close and personal.

Left. Two percussionists contributing to the cacophony.
Right. One of the parade vehicles banking my direction.

And then there's this guy, casually launching roman candles from palm of his hand.

Two enthused officers, busily engaged in directing traffic.

More of the participants, helping guide one of the parade displays.

Berhan Fright Night

2006-11-14T23:27:00.000+08:00

The ghosts and goblins crept out of their holes a little earlier in Taiwan than they did in America... and not just because of the time difference! Spanning two days, our Halloween festivities came the week prior to the 31st. By administrative decision, this year's celebrations were to be scaled down compared to years past. Regardless, staff and students alike shared in eager anticipation of a party!

And so they began to arrive... a Spiderman here, a Spiderman there, a ladybug, pirates, princesses, even a Tootsie roll. Without question though, witches and vampires ruled the day! Fangs apparently come a dime a dozen, and pointy hats don't cost much more. For a country about as familiar with Halloween as Americans are Boxing Day, the number of students who actually came in costume was impressive.

Preparing for the holiday proved anything but relaxing. The plan - 1) Combine classes, each teacher responsible for a different activity. 2) Rotate the kids through. 3) Have fun. 4) Pass out ridiculous amounts of candy. As if coordinating wasn't fun enough, the matter of my costume still lingered, unresolved. For two weeks, my kids inquired impatiently. "Just you wait and see!" was the smug, yet obvious bluff. In my head, the response sounded more like, "Um... yeah costume... oh crap."

Day of the party. Enter Stori into the story. (One of my coworkers... I know, that's terrible). Combining makeup and talent, she magically transformed me into a 40-something-ish, blood-thirsty lunatic. Then, she went a step further and lent me her scrubs, capping it all off. What emerged... the psychotic, insane, mentally deranged, and occasionally cannibalistic Dr. Weber... along with a vault of fresh vocab! For emphasis, I played the part all day long. The kids loved it! Certainly a Halloween to remember.

Jungle Ride

2006-10-18T11:05:00.000+08:00

Development. The calling card of industrialization, stamped on virtually every corner of the beautiful Ilha Formosa. Expected perhaps in one of the most densely populated countries in the world. Tragic nonetheless when spectular mountain vistas are marred by mammoth powerline relays, river beds lined with concrete walls. Everywhere, man has unabashedly left his mark.

On a lazy Saturday afternoon, we experienced one place where nature is fighting back!

A day earlier, my roommate had been exploring near Dongshi, a city just north of Fengyuan. While driving aimlessly along back mountain roads, he came across a hidden stretch of road so completely overgrown by the surrounding forest it could only be described as the "jungle road." Trevor assured us, this was something we needed to see in person. He was right!

Littered with fallen rock, swallowed by undergrowth, the jungle road was pure adventure. In places, rainwater and runoff pooled, making the road almost impassable. Obvious sink holes could be seen forming. Stretches of guardrail had eroded away. It was awesome!

The excursion proved the perfect Saturday diversion, welcome respite from the harried routine of work and responsibilities.

A Weekend in Kenting

2006-10-10T23:45:00.000+08:00

A five-plus-hour car ride. With four native speakers, it was a great opportunity to improve my language ability. Fortunately, my friends speak much better English than I do Chinese! And despite the long drive, I was eager for the chance to visit Kenting, a renowned beach resort at the southern-most tip of Taiwan.

After a late morning departure, we reached Kenting a few hours before sunset. With little idea of our actaul agenda, I was immediately awed at our first stop - the Kenting National Forest. After a brief hike, we climbed to an observation platform to take in the view. The vista was arresting. Verdant, rolling foothills strecth inland as far as the eye can see, eventually escalating into majestic mountains. Opposite, the forest tapers off into the vast blue Pacific. Coral rock and wind-shaped trees, two of the singular features of the forest, are complimented by a variety of flora and fauna that make the forest simply stunning.

Our next stop - South Bay beach. The sun sank quickly as we searched for a spot along main street. We reached the beach with perfect timing to admire the sunset. A few rolling clouds obstructed the view, yet the sky was still painted with soft patches of violet and pink. Even with daylight fading, the beach was thronged with people. We spent a little time in the water, a little time playing, but evening quickly settled. We soon left to prepare our accommodations for the night - two tents at a cozy little site not 15 minutes walk from downtown! Another brief stop, just long enough to set up camp and shower before heading back into town. The Kenting night market awaited.

A brief word on night markets. Virtually every major city or town boasts a night market, many places more than one. No matter where you are, night markets swarm with crowds of people pressing through narrow aisles or along cramped streets lined with shops and vendors, food stands and carnival games. The night market in Kenting was unlike any other I've experienced. The atmosphere was charged, the mass of humanity almost crushing! Enjoy a glimpse for yourself.

Our night was not yet complete. From the night market, we traveled a short distance to visit the chu huo, a site renowned for its small fires that burn perpetually off natural gases seeping up from the earth. Groups of visitors lit fireworks, some popped kettle corn over the flames. Relaxed and at leisure, the mood of the people was contagious. It was simply fun being among them!

Our day eventually came to an end, but not before several rounds of card games back at the campsite. The next morning came too quickly! By midday, we were to be back on the road returning to Fengyuan. We used the morning to visit one last site, the Fuangong temple. Apparently the largest temple of its class in Taiwan, hundreds of visitors filtered through offering prayers and burning incense.

A five-plus-hour return ride. Thoroughly exhausted, I think we were all eager now to get home!

Scooters

2006-09-08T00:21:00.000+08:00

I remember first arriving and experiencing the streets of Fengyuan. I couldn't get enough of zipping around on my brand new bike, weaving through the chaos of cars, buses, scooters, pedestrians, and the occasional dog. At least for the first few weeks. Work soon picked up and the days got longer. The luster of bike rides quickly faded beneath the scorching sun. Besides, a bike didn't really allow me to venture anywhere beyond my immediate surroundings. I began to feel trapped...

About $230 proved my liberation. I bought a scooter - 125cc engine, paint peeling, definitely used. Having a scooter revitalized me! Midnight runs to 711, a hop over to the basketball courts, visits to friends, a refreshing drive into the mountains, convenience getting to church. It hasn't taken long to become an integral part of my daily life. Add to that the sheer rush of navigating traffic - probably best just to flow with it and keep your helmet fastened! Oh, and make sure to check out other people's helmets while you're at it.

Scooters are everywhere. Affordable, maintainable, and practical. It's not uncommon to see a family of three or even four cruising around on a single scooter. Small children either sit behind with arms clutched tightly around the parent, or stand between the driver and the handlebars. Scooters are incredibly convenient for squeezing through traffic. At red lights, as the line of cars quickly extends backwards, scooters sift through the cracks and seams and pool at the front of the intersection. Usually, before the light changes they take off.

A tunnel, inconspicuously burrowed beneath the railroad, connects two obscure side streets. Barely wide enough to admit two scooters, blink and you'll practically miss it. It's one of my favorite routes downtown! Stores of similar experiences await discovery in secreted nooks and alleys all over Fengyuan. Scooters render it all accessible. After spending a whole day confined to the school, I unwind by exploring. Getting lost has never been more therapeutic.

You have to live the experience to understand it. Video might be the next best thing! As a disclaimer, videoblogging is new to me. I apologize of any technical difficulties if you cannot view them.

Guguan Hot Springs

2006-08-22T23:10:00.000+08:00

We heard tell of hot springs. Guguan, a small town nestled in the mountains east of Fengyuan, is locally renowned for its springs and a popular resort destination for the Taiwanese. The allure was certainly enough to merit a day trip.

Guguan is situated along a river that snakes through the canyon, sheltered on both sides by mountains veiled in green. A beautiful contrast to the now familiar sites of Fengyuan. We set off immediately to learn more about the hot springs. Following a trail outside the Guguan visitor's center, we wound our way down to the river and discovered a large foot bridge extending to the far side. The sign, roughly translated into English, is classic Taiwan! This country is littered with awesome translations on signs, menus, everything, all catered to the anglophone visitor. Something you need to be here to fully appreciate I think.

On the opposite side of the river, we had no luck locating the hot springs we sought. In the interest of time, we returned to get more information, also affording us an opportunity to tour the town. It is quaint, for Taiwan. A small number of shops lined the main street, a few with large fish tanks on display that immediately caught my eye. Like the pretty fish? Step right behind into the restaurant and you can have your pick of the bunch!

The more people we conversed with in town, the more we began to understand. Our idea of hot springs did not exactly equate with the Taiwanese idea. Where we envisioned natural pools, slippery rocks, and sulfur, the locals know only spas - perhaps heated by thermal springs if you're lucky, but what does that matter really? No wonder everyone we asked kept directing us to the hotels. In vain we tried to indicate that we thought we should be heading deeper into the mountains.

Not that the idea of a spa was entirely unappealing. In fact, we soon embraced the alternative and began searching for a reasonably priced place. Spas abound in Guguan, almost to rival restaurants. In the end, we were more than happy to pay a relative pittance for admission to a decent spa with a spectacular view. Five pools of varying temperature. Jets, high-pressure showers, and sauna. Two hours of perfect relaxation. I slept like a baby on the bus ride back home.

A Tribute

2006-08-08T21:23:00.000+08:00

On their birthday, I pay special tribute to my beloved parents whose guidance and affection have led me to where I am. I do not attempt to relate the storied history of events and seeming coincidences that eventually crossed such disparate paths as theirs. Suffice it to say, they came from different worlds. On December 30, 1969 those worlds converged in an celestial union, marking the birth of a new family.

To my parents I owe everything. Their nuturing and affection have defined, and redefined my character with unerring constancy.

My father has been, and remains to this day the consummate example in my life. Indefatigably cheerful and selfless, genuinely humble and sincere, he is distinguished by both personal conviction and unwavering faith. The quality of his character is readily attested by any in his acquaintence. I remember him teaching me to pray as a young boy. Kneeling together at my bedside, my prayers were always followed with his amens, approvingly and authoritatively voiced in such a manner that I was certain my petitions were heard in the heavens. To this day, I can distinctly recall those amens - often still I echo them silently in conclusion to my most sincere supplications. My father also taught me the value of service, that it's rewards are manifestly multiplied when performed gladly and motivated by love. Opportunities to reach out were never ignored.

What can be written to justly honor my mother? How can I describe the absolute courage and devotion of a woman willing to separate herself from family and country in pursuit of a new found faith? Of much of her life prior to marriage, I am shamefully ignorant. My memories and impressions of her as a mother, however, are vast and replete with love, respect, and admiration. As a young woman she was beautiful indeed. Years of virtuous living and unvarying devotion have only rendered her more so. Amiable and affectionate by nature, she taught me to cherish and serve others. She encourgaed me to work hard, consistently supporting me in my duties and responsibilities. Most of all, however, I am grateful for her resolute testimony of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. Her faith is vibrant, and it is a source of constant strength to me, even removed as I am to the far side of the globe.

To my parents - it is now consecutive years that I have been abroad on this occasion. Know that my thoughts and prayers are with you. Thank you for who you are, for what you've taught me, and for how you continue to support me in all of my endeavors. I love you.

Affectionately, Your Son

Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial

2006-08-07T00:09:00.000+08:00

Last weekend afforded an opportunity for a short visit to Taipei. With absolutely no prior experience in Taiwan's capitol, my roommate and I decided to explore the nearby Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall during our few free afternoon hours. We eagerly set out on foot, trusting to recognize the reknowned site neither before beheld by either.

Recognize it we did. Standing on the corner of a large intersection, debating the possibility of having received poor directions, we lifted our eyes and observed a scene both had managed to overlook only 30 seconds previous. Directly opposite us stretched an elaborate white and blue-trimmed wall encompassing a beautiful city park, easily imagined to canvas the entire city block. Rising distantly above the treeline, an ornate roof bespoke the presence of a magnificent structure situated deeper within the walled grounds. Our steps were immediately bent toward it.

We meandered forward, admiring the extensive variety of shrubbery and appreciating the relief of shade. The enormous building loomed before us on the far side of the garden. We approached from the rear of the memorial, unexposed to the full grandeur of the scene about to be discovered. The hall is impressive indeed - a fortress of immaculate white stone standing atop an elevated base, itself at least two stories high. The majestic pagoda roof, upon close inspection, is of the most intricate design, and looks almost as if built entirely of, well, legos. Inside the hall sits a daunting statue of the late President. The woodwork decorating the ceiling above is simply awesome.

Continuing to the front of the hall, the full scale of the C.K.S. Memorial Park was soon revealed in a breathtaking panorama. The park occupies several city blocks, by conservative estimate, in both breadth and width. From the base of the memorial hall extends the Boulevard of Homage, a broad stone thoroughfare flanked by symmetrically manicured gardens. The far end of the Boulevard joins to the east side of the expansive C.K.S. Square. Exactly opposite on the west end stands the park's main gate, the striking 30-meter high Gate of "Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness." On the north and south sides are located the National Concert Hall and the National Theater respectively. Awed and in no hurry to move on, we readily passed an hour, and more, surveying the many remarkable sites.

Our brief tour of the capitol also allowed a visit to the Taipei Taiwan Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Nestled quietly in the midst of another otherwise frenzied neighborhood, the Temple contrasts sharply against the surrounding city blocks. The grounds, though restricted in size, possess the signature elegance common to all temples scattered throughout the many corners of the globe. A special spirit shrouds this beautiful edifice.

Taoist Temple

2006-07-23T02:30:00.000+08:00

The distinct architecture and striking colors of the Taoist temple provide welcome relief from the monotomy of stores and deteriorating buildings in downtown Feng Yuan.

A monk clad in traditional orange robes greets visitors to the temple with a tranquil smile, a donation bin in hand. The smile is returned graciously as I step past into the central shrine, hesitating a moment so my eyes can react to the dimmed interior. A shroud of incense, like fog, hangs almost palpable in the air. My gaze is immediately engaged by a large black cauldron, centrally positioned in a small inner courtyard. Two dragons cling to opposing sides of the cauldron, their mouths gaping menacingly in the rising smoke of freshly lit incense. A large pumpkin, symbolic of longevity and good health, sits directly in front on a low pedestal.

Directly behind the cauldron is the main shrine. Both the identity of the god and the significance of the religious ornaments surrounding it are equally lost upon me. No one around speaks English well enough to explain the scene. After a moment, I begin exploring further. The main shrine is encircled by several smaller shrines, each dedicated to a different god. Each is ornately adorned with countless idols and carvings.

After only a short visit, I nearly forget the bustling city practically smothering the temple outside. The afternoon sun is hot and brilliant, the fresh air revitalizing. The temple, on the south, is bordered by a congested intersection, and on the north by a narrow pedestrian street affectionately known as "stinky tofu alley." The name owes to tudofu, a particular type of tofu possessing one of the most pugnant and offensive odors imaginable, blitzing the nose and striking directly at the stomach. Pockets of the stench waft throughout the alley, eminating from the dozens of food vendors crammed along the street. An uninterrupted line of small shops and boutiques form second rank immediately behind the food stands. All remaining space in the alley is filled with people, playing human bumper cars. I didn't come to shop today, only absorb. Soon I am satisfied with the day's discoveries and begin working my way back home.

Taichung Jade Market

2006-07-17T21:00:00.000+08:00

Taichung. Population 1,054,202. The city feels like Feng Yuan. Identical scents. Identical sounds. The city is ten times the size of Feng Yuan. Sprawling. Congested. Less innocent. Among the trove of its treasures - the Jade Market.

Jade - the Royal Gem. Rich in historical significance. Symbolic of energy, vivacity, and harmony. The cultural import of jade is evidenced by the swarming activity of the market. Occupying nearly an entire city block, the market comes to life every Friday through Sunday. Eager shoppers clot the aisles, flanked on both sides by artisans offering bracelets, rings, pendants, and carvings. Even the thriftiest of tourists can find a suitable souvenir.

Merchants offer much more than jade jewelry. Various kinds of wood, metals, stone, quartz, ivory, and earthwares abound. Beyond the statuary and carvings, vendors sell paintings, swords and daggers, chess sets, vases, and of course tea. Meandering along the rows, I often felt more a museum patron than a shopper. I did not buy. I only admired the beuatiful workmanship. Much of the merchandise is crafted by the various vendors themselves. One of the most striking displays - a set of masterfully crafted juniper bowls. Rich in reddish hue and powerfully aromatic, I paused and admired them for some time, nearly deciding on my first purchase.

Night Scenes

2006-07-12T23:29:00.000+08:00

By 7:30, night blankets Feng Yuan. With the sun down, life in the city surges.

Scenes of a busy street Saturday night after watching Superman Returns. Each sense is engaged in the experience. Drink in the dazzling spectrum of lights in every direction. Taste the humidity hanging in the air, sweat beading on the brow. Hear the urban medley - scooter engines, indecipherable Chinese blaring from ad trucks, a dozen different radios. Inhale the wafting scents of foriegn foods, exhaust, and burning incense. Feel the pulse of the people. And feel overwhelmed.

Relief in a recognizable symbol. Three shiny stories of American majesty - resort for the homesick wanderer. Big Mac meals go for $109 NTD, or about $3 US. Not too bad for the frugal minded. I'm thinking McDonald's will certainly have its role. So far I've only been twice, and it was packed both times. A group of kids, busy about their hamburgers, began laughing at me when I sat down during my second visit. I'm not sure what for. English abilities were limited, but a deck cards belonging to one of them provided a simple solution. One little trick and we became fast friends. Card tricks transcend language barriers wonderfully.

Returning to the night. Only a few miles from the last scene and you discover the night market. Every Saturday night, an otherwise deserted parking lot transforms into a bustling hive - a hybrid flea market and small-town fair. Children empty parents' pockets for mini ferris wheel rides, ring toss games, and tempting bumper cars. Parents empty parents' pockets to satisfy appetites - fried squid, pie rolls, rice dishes, noodles, sushi, anything you could want (or not want depending on the reader). Merchant stalls offer clothes, books, toys, and all kinds of useless junk. Throngs of bodies press through the area like rush-hour traffic on the Beltway - only, minus rules to help govern the chaos.

To be continued...

The courts of Feng Yuan

2006-07-04T09:26:00.000+08:00

Basketball courts. Naturally, one of my first orders of business was finding somewhere to play! Even before arriving in Taiwan, I was eager to begin looking. It was one of the first questions I asked during our city bicycle tour our first day here. And here they are!

In a park, not more than 10 minutes from the school by bicycle, two full-length outdoor courts sit adjacent to each other. It's summer, and even on a Monday night, easily more than 50 people hang around, all anxious to play. Games are half court, three-on-three, first-team-to-six-points-by-ones, winner's ball. Games are also lightning fast, highly competitive, and yet ultimately friendly. Players call their own fouls and are quick to say sorry.

Both morning and night, and especially on weekends, the courts swell with activity. Not all of it is basketball. Last night, a Tai Chi class occupied one of the half courts for about an hour after we arrived. Tai Chi is a meditative exercise derived anciently from martial arts - a sort of breed of yoga and meditation. In between games, I sat quietly and observed the group, hopefully not disturbing them with several blinding flashes from my camera!

The basketball courts are only one of the park's many treasures. Landscaped gardens, shaded footpaths, pavilions, children's playgrounds - all come together to create a welcome oasis nestled inconspicuously in a cramped and congested city. In the heart of the park stands a towering monument, it's meaning and significance as obscure to me as the Chinese characters that adorn it. Four prominent characters appear on the front of the monument, which supposedly read Heaven, Above, (unknown), and Mother. The stone carvings around the base of the statue are beautifully crafted - the dragons in particular are my favorite.

The courts. I think I will be visiting the park often.

Contact Info

2006-06-29T07:08:00.000+08:00

The following is my contact info during my stay in Taiwan. I'm teaching at the Berhan Language Institute in Feng Yuan, Taichung.

Brett Weber
336, Ay Gwo St.
Feng Yuan, Taichung
Taiwan, R.O.C.

Phone: 011-886-4-2515-3873 (886 is the country code)

Email: brettweber@gmail.com

And there's my blog which you obviously already know about...

The phone line is not direct to my room, but rather to the school and will likely be answered by one of the secretaries. Once we know our exact teaching schedules, I will probably know the best times to reach me by phone in case you should so desire. Email is of course the easiest.

I hope to hear from you!

Arrival

2006-06-29T05:46:00.000+08:00

"Glistening clean. Paint thinner." The first words in my journal to capture my initial impressions of Taiwan. At least the terminal we arrived at. The airport was by far the cleanest I've ever seen. The floors sparkled. The amount of cleansers needed to keep it that away definitely did not escape the senses. The airport felt small; we moved efficiently through customs, baggage claim, and with a little assitance found the bus terminal. If the 13 plus hour flight hadn't been enough, we next had to take a bus two or so hours to Taichung where we were picked up by Gerald, the director of the English school at Berhan. Another 30 minute van ride, with our bags as our seats, we reached the school in Feng Yuan. It was a little after 1 AM local time.

"Stiff but good." The description of my mattress on the room inspection forms we filled out the next day. Stiff is an understatement. I love it! It reminds me of being in Fiji, sleeping on the floor. I just need my wood pillow again! Wednesday morning, from the roof of the four-story school building, I took in my new surroundings for the first time under the light of day. Cramped, dirty buildings of cement and cinder block. Cacophonous cicadas. Oppressive heat and a mugginess you can mold. Further into town and the stores and businesses become dressed in a sea of chinese characters, rendering the entire scene utterly alien. Every corner appears the same. Every other corner offers a pugnant smell you'd rather not be offered. Bikes and pedestrians compete with scooters, motorcycles, and cars for space on the streets. My first impressions of Taiwan.

The countdown is on...

2006-06-02T23:28:00.000+08:00

24. 24 days and I board the plane. 24 days and I begin a new chapter in my life. A short 13-hour flight later and I find myself in a new environment, a new culture, a new world.

I've got to make it through these 24 days first. It's nonstop from here. 8 days to prepare. 10 days for France. 2 days for a road trip. 1 day for training. 2 days for friends, family, and farewells.

I'm excited, anxious, overwhelmed, relaxed, eager, and pained somehow all at the same time. Teaching will be a great and challenging endeavor. Taiwan will be a rich and rewarding experience. There's a lot I expect to take away from this personally. I hope my friends and family will visit this site often. I will dutifully attempt to post often with pictures and accounts of my experiences abroad.

Well, errands call. The countdown relentlessly continues...